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When you look at a surfer sitting on his board waiting to catch a wave,
你看着一个冲浪者站在板上等待着捕捉海浪
something strange happens.
奇怪的现象发生了
Although the wave moves forward, the surfer doesn't go with it.
虽然海浪向后移动冲浪者却没有跟着向后
The wave just passes through
海浪只是涌过来
Lifting the water and the surfer up and down in the process.
拱起水面，冲浪者跟着上上下下
In effect, the ocean's just transferring the energy of the waves
实际上海洋只是在传递海浪的能量
to the water in front of it.
传递给前面的海浪
And this movement of energy is so efficient
这种能量运动非常高效
it would carry on pretty much forever if the land didn't get in the way.
如果没有陆地挡住去路它可能永远进行下去
When the wave arrives at the shore, the water becomes shallow.
海浪到达海岸时，水变的很浅
so the base of the wave slows down.
所以浪底慢下来
But the top runs on ahead until the inevitable happens.
但是浪尖仍然向前直到发生不可避免的现象
The peak topples over, creating the breaking wave.
浪尖翻转，形成了碎浪
This is the moment when the energy captured from the wind in the distant mid-ocean is finally unleashed.
就在这一刻 海洋遥远中部从风中捕捉到的能量 才终于得以释放
